When you think of a hole-in-the-wall establishment, your mind probably goes straight to the bar scene, but Bendoya Sushi Bar* in Downtown Louisville is what one might consider a hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Unlike some of the other sushi lounges in the Kentuckiana area, Bendoya in Louisville offers its own special kind of nuances. This, however, is the cause of both its strengths and weaknesses.
The Experience
Bendoya is tiny. To the credit of manager Song Kim, the space is quite lovely. Some sushi lounges can feel cluttered or gimmicky with a décor that begs to be downscaled and more minimalistic in its approach, but Bendoya is classically handsome in its design. A large mural occupies the left wall opposite the chocolate-colored wooden sushi bar that dominates the space. Customers have a choice between eating elbow-to-elbow with strangers at a traditional counter space, or they can relax at tables for two and four.
The Service
Anytime anyone enters or leaves the eatery, a member of the Bendoya staff acknowledges them with a "welcome" or "goodbye," which is not the norm in many Downtown Louisville establishments. The wait staff is completely friendly and ready to please in any way they can. The staff is very helpful when explaining menu items, and they take great joy in discussing their food with guests. In a time where impersonal service is usually expected, the Bendoya wait staff takes the extra time to make the diner feel like a true guest.
The Review
Sushi, in general, usually comes in one of two forms: really good and really bad. A diner at a new restaurant can't count on which one they will get based on the appearance of the establishment -- it's basically the "don't judge a book by its cover" approach when eating Japanese food. So, the surprise at Bendoya was in how the food was simply mediocre.
My meal began with an amuse bouche of open dumplings (not gyoza dumplings) graciously delivered from the kitchen by one of the many kind members of the Bendoya wait staff. The dumplings were tender and slightly sweet pork-filled starters that readied the taste buds for the flavors to follow. The seaweed soup, ordered in place of the usual miso, was one of the best soups I have tasted in our area. The broth was rich and complicated and hinted of sea living without a "fishy" taste whatsoever. The generous portion of seaweed was tender and filling and satisfied in both taste and texture.
The sushi at Bendoya is served on traditional wooden Japanese sushi blocks -- a surprising and delightful change from the elegantly-designed sushi served on a boring flat plate at other Louisville sushi joints. The AAC Roll (avocado, asparagus, and cucumber), which costs just under $5 for 8-10 pieces, was crunchy and flavorful. It would make for a nice selection for vegetarian eaters.
The Tofu Roll, again at just under $5, was an interesting roll in that it was served with crab inside and slices of fried tofu cradling the top. The tofu gave it an earthy taste, but it was nothing terribly special. The Kani Crab was sweet and generous for a 2-piece portion, but was also just sort of boring. And finally, the Rubby Roll, which is advertised as a spicy tuna roll, was so overpoweringly spicy that the flavors below the bright red chili paste were completely lost to the chemical heat of the topping.
While certain aspects of the meal were well done, all in all the meal was just okay. Although the sushi at Bendoya was far from horrible, Kentuckiana offers a host of sushi lounges that offer much better versions of the same rolls. However, if you're a first-time sushi eater who wants to get their feet wet trying something that has recently become very popular in Louisville, then Bendoya is a good jumping off point.
Recommendations
- Seaweed Soup
- AAC Roll
- Dumplings
Pros
- Presentation of the food is traditional and exciting
- Sushi menu is extensive
- Wait staff is wonderfully friendly and helpful
Cons
- Location is a bit out of the way and could be hard to find if the patron is not familiar with Downtown Louisville.
- Parking is street-only, so make certain you have change for a meter and don't care to walk a couple blocks during the downtown lunch rush.
- Food is just mediocre. Entrees fail at being more standout than appetizers.
*Bendoya Sushi Bar is located at 217 S. 5th St. in Downtown Louisville. At the time of this review, the restaurant did not have a website. Contact the restaurant by phone at (502) 581-0700 with questions.
